'Powerful ocean waves fascinate the public, and they have made a lot of news lately.' With that indisputable observation, scientist J. B. Zirker takes off on a whirlwind tour of the world of wavesfrom the 'ordinary' waves that constantly churn the sea to the rogues or freaks that can rise up seemingly from nowhere to heights of 20 meters or more and everything in between.Addressing questions most ocean visitors have had and offering new ones for our consideration, The Science of Ocean Waves explains in accessible language how waves are formed, how they move, how they become huge and destructive, and how they're being studied now for clues that will help us plan for the future.Devoting chapters to wind, tides, currents, breakers, tsunamis, forecasting, renewable energy, and El Niñoas well as discussing the gentler properties of ocean waves which inspire us and offer opportunities for relaxation and recreationZirker explores the physical factors that create waves.Drawing on some of the recent storms that have devastated entire regionssuch as Hurricane Katrina, the tsunami launched by the 2004 Sumatran earthquake, and the great tsunami that crushed the shore of Japan in 2011Zirker explains the forces that cause these monster waves and reveals the toll they take on human lives.Enhanced by more than 45 illustrations and a comprehensive glossary, The Science of Ocean Waves will fascinate anyone curious about the science behind the headlines.Praise for J. B. Zirker'Scientists know their stuff but are rarely good storytellers, whereas good storytellers rarely possess the necessary sweeping command of a scientific discipline. Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible.' New Scientist
Preface 1. A Walk along the Beach 2. What Exactly Is a Wave? 3. How the Wind Generates Ocean Waves 4. A Touch of Reality: How Big Waves Behave 5. Observations at Sea: The Postwar Boom 6. Forecasting and Monitoring Storm Waves 7. Breaking Waves 8. Freaks and Rogues 9. Tsunamis 10. Internal Waves and El Niño 11. The Tides 12. The Currents 13. Ship Waves 14. Renewable Energy from Waves and Tides 15. The Future Glossary Index
""In his new book, The Science of Ocean Waves: Ripples, Tsunamis, and Stormy Seas, J. B. Zirker offers a comprehensive and up-to-date account of a familiar phenomenon whose complexity is hardly appreciated by nonscientists. Zirker's deep insights, historic perspectives, and excellent narrative, which he provides with minimal graphics and without a single equation, make the book a fascinating read... The Science of Ocean Waves is truly a remarkable achievement. It has a great chance to become a standard text for students, scientist, weather and ocean forecasters, engineers, climate modelers, and anyone else whose curiosity or professional interests relate to ocean waves.""